Hanoi: The Old Quarter

Day 3 – Hanoi

Despite a rough time falling asleep last night (since it was 1 PM EST) we got up and out early this morning to explore. Our target was the Old Quarter and the various ancient trade markets therein. We had our route planned out and we left the quiet and peaceful Hilton Opera to immediately step out onto the chaotic Hanoi street scene. It was an overcast morning and we packed appropriate monsoon gear just in case. We were instantly accosted by a rickshaw driver that aggressively tried to lure us in. We turned him down but he persisted for another block, and then finally gave up, but offered us a friendly hand-shake and promised to help us enjoy Hanoi anyway (specifically to take us to John McCain’s cell in the Hanoi Hilton). He was only the first of many vendors we’d fend off in the first few moments on the street. Immediately adjacent to the hotel is the beautiful Opera house, or as it is officially known, the Municiple Theatre of Hanoi (how communist of them:). In the sun it was as beautiful as its silhouette suggested in the dark late last night. In front of the Opera house it was absolutely necessary for us to cross our first Hanoi street, something we avoided for the first few blocks. We decided to take this leap at one of the busiest Hanoi interections. Amid the oncoming (and going) torrent of cars, motorbikes, buses, bicycles and scooters, and holding hands tightly, we counted down from three at least five times before a Hail Mary finally gave us the nerve to step off the curb. We decided to use two locals as lead blockers (and to emulate their proper form) we followed closely (and I mean, closely) on their heels. Standing line abreast as we traversed the avenue while everything with wheels honked furiously while careening out of our way at full speed. With this experience, and the many that followed, our first day in country can be considered a huge success, if for no other reason we have perfected this death-defying stunt. (*For you skeptical world travelers out there who will list other cities as being equally crazy-- Rome, Beijing, etc. -- Katie remarked after our third street crossing, that Cairo was a piece of cake compared to this.)

After passing a few magnificent French colonial hotels and some monolitihic communist constructions, we found our way to Hoan Kiem Lake. With its 15th century pagodas and temples, if you could turn your brian off to the throbbing traffic on the street, it was a beautiful and tranquil site to be seen. We smiled to ourselves as we watched several newly-wed (or soon to be) couples arrive to take lake-side photos dressed to the nines in exquisitely ornate wedding gowns and three piece suits. Ngoc Son Temple sits atop an island on the northern side of Hoan Kiem Lake. There, we watched tourists and locals alike visit. Tourists snapped photos while locals bought insence and climbed a steep rocky mound to pay their respects to ancestors with their small smoldering gifts. We left this serene locale (although still full of pushy ladies hawking tour books and postcards) for the frenetic and noisy alleyways of the Old Quarter Shoe Market. The marketplaces of the Old Quarter are divided by the type of good and each street is named for the trade that inhabits it. First, the Shoe Market - There we window shopped through blocks upon blocks of street side stands and storefronts housing every known type of adornment for one's tootsies. We were particularly intriguied by the “brand name” options. The Shoe Market led us through, respectively, the fish market, fruit/veggie market, garment market, tin market, blacksmith/tin market, Buddha market, spice markets and silk markets. Each of which was a world unto its own. We enjoyed unknown streetfood for breakfast, currently without incident– some sort of scalding hot bun with minced porked wrapped in egg (Vietnamese version of the Dukin Donuts breakfast sandwhiches?)
In the garment district we ran into a shoe store that was packed with Western women. The owners apparently have concluded that a shoe store among streets and streets of shoe stores may be at a competitive disadvantage. This concept, however, led us to inspect neighboring stands. The garment district and tin district allowed the layman western observer to see slight differences (example: Nike only knock off stand next to an Adidas only knock off stand next to a Fila, and so on and so on…)

We then came upon a Buddhist alter and statuary market. There sellers promoted wooden statues, all manner of brass lamps, candle holders and signet calligraphy stamps. Through the Buddhist market where the silks. Four blocks of dresses, scarves, suits and ties with tailors laying in wait for a passer by to slow down enough to be enveloped in measuring tape, pins, and a team of seamstresses. Katie grinned and knowingly slowed down and was promptly fitted for a dragon adorned, high-collared, Asian-style dress, hand tailored to her exact peculiarities. The final product will be hers at a song in less than 24 hours.

Briefly stopping at the beautiful Neo-Gothic Saint Joseph’s Cathedral, we turned a corner to have lunch and rest a few minutes. Hanoi beer, extra large tiger prawns, and soft spring rolls hit the spot and fueled our final wanderings. On our way back to the hotel we bought tickets for tonight’s Classical Symphnony Concert: the Sibelius 5th Symphony and some Vietnamese favorites.

Finally, we ran into our “old friend,” or, by his given name, Ting, the rickshaw driver from hours earlier. Politely inquiring how our first day in Hanoi was, he once again reminded us that he could take us on a great tour of assorted tourist landmarks and “knew a guy” who could fit us for suits or kimonos. For a shockingly low hourly price, Ting will be our chauffer and friend tomorrow, all morning as we pick up our custom purchases.

So now, we’re rested a bit and getting ready for the symphony, dinner, and whatever Hanoi nightlife we can handle before jetlag demands that we return to the hotel. More to come (pictures soon) …

-Katie & Adam


PS- For those interested, today the Vietnamese Dong is trading at 17, 847 VND to 1 USD (not an ideal number for quick conversion and street haggling)